Health, Disease, & Treatment... |
This section is dedicated to some
health issues and treatments we've had concerning our Koi.
There are 3 things that should
be considered when getting new koi
or treating ill koi.
One - water quality
is a major priority, keeping new or sick fish in pristine, clean
water only aids to there overall health. Having a quarantine
set-up running and cycled before bringing home new fish is highly
recommended.
Two - Quarantine,
Quarantine, Quarantine!!!!
All new additions to a koi collection, or any fish collection,
should be quarantined for a set amount of time to ensure they
do not infect resident fish with potential parasites and/or
bacteria. We have found out the hard way that even a 3 week
quarantine period is not sufficient enough in most cases. We
practice quarantine for no less than 4-6 months with new additions
to our collection.
Three - Quarantine with
a "buddy". Koi are social creatures and enjoy company.
Nothing stresses a koi more than isolation in an unfamiliar
environment. So, we introduce a fish from our collection, usually
one that is friendly and calm, to keep the new fish(or fishes)
from being to stressed in their new surroundings. This also
does something else, it introduces(exposes) your present koi
to any pathogens that the new koi may have and vice versa.

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| Minor
Sores - Treatment |
(click
on the images to view a larger photo) |
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January
2008
21
inch male koi - indoor 3600 tank - winter temp at 10C/50F
Not
sure why this doitsu ochiba's tail tube became inflamed,..
we did a scrape and scope but found no parasites.
Chose
to treat the affected area with a salt paste - 1 part water
to 3 parts salt (table salt). Paste is applied with a soft
basting brush.
One week
later there was noticable improvement from the first application.
The koi was netted again and a second dose of salt paste reapplied.
Updated
photo's need to be taken, healing has gone very well even
at the low temperature. |
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January
2008
24
inch female koi - indoor 3600 tank - winter temp at 10C/50F
At the
same time the ochiba's tail became inflamed we noticed our
ginrin kohaku had a few raised scales along her lateral line
and the skin was turning pink around them.
Scrape and scope came up with nada...
Again
we chose to apply a salt paste.
One week
later a noticable difference. A second application was given.
RIGHT:
She has scuffed the skin around her eye as well,... this was
not topically treated with anything, just left to heal on
it's own.
Updated
photo's will be added shortly, healing has gone very well,
no additional paste treatments were done. |
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Koi Ulcers
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Fish
can be susceptible to developing ulcers if their normal defences
are compromised by stress. High numbers of opportunistic bacteria,
such as would be found in water with a high organic content
or other diseased fish, increases the risk of infection. Ulcers
can be caused by damage to the skin from parasites and/or
exposure to high levels of ammonia or nitrite.
If
just one fish is affected it is most likely due to a health
problem specific to that individual. If several fish are affected
it is quite likely that there is an environmental problem,
be it water quality or parasites or both, that needs to be
address and rectified.
The importance of tackling bacterial diseases such as ulcers
in a systematic, thorough way can not be stressed enough.
Simply applying shotgun treatments, in which a range of different
medications are tried in succession, is unlikely to work and
in all probability will simply make matters worse.
The most common bacterial
invader is Aeromonas.
There is no single physical or behavioural
sign specific for Aeromonas infections. Infected fish frequently
have: small pinpoint hemorrhages at the base of the fins or
on the skin, distended abdomens, and protruding eyes. Internal
signs include: fluid in the abdomen, swollen liver and spleen,
and the intestines are distended and fluid-filled.
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| These are 2 of the rescued
3 Japanese Koi we obtained in mid-December 2000 at a dealer
that was going out of business. None of these Koi were in good
health. We tried our best to save each one, but only a Female
Sanke survived. She is the first case discussed. |

Dozer was a very good patient, mind you Ian is very good at
handling fish. |
This 6inch Japanese Sanke(shown
far left) developed an ulcer just behind/below
her right pectoral fin...
Treatment consisted of antibiotic injections with Baytril.
They were administered at 1 shot a day
over the course of 10 days.
When good tissue healing was noticed the injections were
stopped. Injections were done IP(intraperitoneal
- into the body cavity).
A blister formed around the injection site, but soon went
away after the injections were stopped.
As a result of the ulcer she lost most of her pectoral fin,
it never grew back fully.
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| Injecting
a dose of Baytril. All injections were done just aft of the
vent opening-before the anal opening. This may have been the
reason for the blister... but from what we understand injecting
IP is more reliable than IM, although with IP there is more
risk of puncturing an organ. Either way, care, patience, and
steady hands are needed to administer injections. |
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April
2003 - Dozer is a Japanese female doitsu Sanke and 4 years
old in this picture.
She is
quite the character and near and dear to our hearts, Ian affectionately
calls her "Pin-Cushion". She was given the name
Dozer because she is able to take in a huge amount of food
in one furious gulp! At the time of naming her we did not
know she was a she... But the name sticks and suits her well.
January
2004 - she is 16inches. I assume because of the crowded conditions
she came from previous to us and her initial poor health she
will be a slow grower.
Dozer
also changes her "spots" seasonally... her sumi
comes and goes.... |

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Carp
Pox ~ Fish
Pox |
What
do we know about Carp Pox?
It's
a viral infection.
Being a virus, carp pox is not "curable". While
it is unsightly this condition is not life threatening to
adult fish... but may hinder good growth in young fish and
could be devastating to fry who are not immuno-competant.
Carp
pox is most often first noticed in the spring or fall when
water temperature's are quite cool. As the weather improves
and temperatures increase, in some instances the immune response
of the fish may stop viral production and the wax-like growths
shed. The virus is able to survive in the fish from year to
year, laying dormant, so repeated outbreaks may or may not
occur in the future.
Carp
Pox can be highly infectious, especially at
high stocking densities; external parasites may also be important
in spreading the disease. |
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Our Experience
...
We obtained this malaysian Koi
in early spring 2001. At the time this Koi showed no symptoms
of Carp Pox. In
late spring we noticed the waxy white droplets covering his
fins. It progressively got worse over the course of the season.
In the fall of that same year we brought him indoors to spend
the winter in a heated quarantine tank.
As far as we know there is no
known cure for Carp Pox. It can come on full force then
leave - as if it were never there in the first place. It seems
this condition is temperature sensitive and requires some
stressor to the fish to become active. Heating into the 80*F
range seems to make the virus recess while colder temps can
cause it to become more severe. Mind you the opposite can
also be true as there is more than one strain of Carp Pox
virus. The waxy growths are, from what I've come to understand,
simply dead or dying skin cells in the upper epidermal layers.
We are still learning ourselves how the virus works.
In spring of 2002, after debating
on whether to release this particular Koi back into the main
pond, and with the heat treatment not doing very much, we
decided to try and treat the growths with Tincture of Iodine.
The Koi was netted and the iodine was applied onto the effected
areas with a cotton swab. While we had him netted we took
a sample to view under the microscope, and also to look for
possible parasites. There was minimal damage to his fins that
were effected and they soon healed. In June 2002 he was released
back into outside pond, clear of the waxy growths. How long
the virus will stay hidden we do not know, but this year,
2004, he still shows no signs of Carp Pox.
|
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LEFT:
What Carp Pox looks like on the under-belly.
RIGHT:
Fall 2001 before coming indoors to spend the winter
in Qt.
We
named this koi Dusty. He will never be a large fish
by koi standards. At present (June 2004) he is approximately
12" and I'd hazard a guess he is between 5-6
years old. |
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|
It
seems everywhere you look there are Koi and goldfish with
carp pox. I don't think we've been to a dealers store where
we haven't noticed it on atleast one fish with the tell tail
signs of wax droppings. The unfortunate part of this,
because the virus can be dormant for a very long period of
time, you do not know if you are purchasing a fish with carp
pox....
Something
that has crossed my mind is that some fish seem "immune"
to the virus. I say this because Dusty has been with us for
a few years and living with our other koi... most of which
have never shown any sign of Carp Pox. Ian and I have discussed
removing Dusty from our collection many times ~ I'm sure there
are other hobbyists out there that wouldn't have given it
a second thought...
Another thought is that if they have been infected with carp
pox they may develop an immunity to the virus but still be
carriers which can - or could - infect other fish.
Some would argue that they can not be "immune" if
they've come into contact with the virus and that the virus
has only been recessed into dormancy...
There
is a similar virus called LYMPHOCYSTIS. This virus is also
contagious and while it may at first look like Carp Pox you
must take a close look as lymphocystis appears warty, and
rough ~ like tiny "cauliflower" which may have a
faint red/pink colour.

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more to come.... |
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